L'Espalier at The Mandarin Oriental

774 Boylston Street
Boston MA 02199
(617) 262-3023

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In late 2008 Boston's beloved L'Espalier moved over to the new Mandarin Oriental Hotel to be their flagship 5 star restaurant. They left behind history and charm in the form of their Back Bay brownstone and moved up to the sleek jetset of one of the world's premiere hotel chains. With Tom back in town for February this shift of their Fantasy Tea Party provided The Boston Teacup with at least one more tea to try ('at least?' you say... read on).

Now if you recall, weekend afternoon tea at L'Espalier was one of our of favorites, with impeccable service and undeniably good food (old review here). With more room in the new kitchen and more space for the waiters could this possibly improve to an even higher level? And how about the atmosphere and tea? Will the 2008 model make-up for losing the idiosyncratic charming romance of the 19th-century original?

As in the old digs, we both ordered 'Red Riding Hood's Basket' ($36) - your choice of tea plus a selection of petit fours, pastries and canapes. We had one regular and one with vegetarian substitutions and picked our choices from a basic list of 7 posh teas. The menus were whisked away soon to be replaced by white teapots and three rounds of bite-sized creations, ending of course, with the classic L'Espalier swan.

From our table we could gaze down through glass walls to Boylston Street below, or pan our eyes around the room and gawp at our fellow diners taking the tasting menu or the equally interesting modern chandeliers. On our exit we were able to wander through the refined 21st century maze that is the new hotel and much to our disturbance found ANOTHER TEA going on by the fire and sofas of the Mandarin Lobby. Damn! A new tea that the Boston Teacup hasn't yet reviewed!


Tom...
I'll jump straight to it, I've not left an afternoon tea feeling so failed. What had been one of my favorite afternoons in 2007 became a hefty 2009 disappointment. To lose the setting of the Gloucester Street Brownstone is unfortunate, but to lose the service, the atmosphere and the tea is careless. As a positive, the decor was at least a step up from that seen at the rival modern hotel, The Ritz Carlton. The food as well, is still top class but it didn't feel world class like before. Sigh.
The whole experience felt detached and awkward. We were the only table having tea and I felt like a second class citizen to those around me getting full introductions to everything on their tasting menu. What was I nibbling on? I had no clue! And with the menu long taken away how could I tell that I just broken my own moral stance and accidentally eaten foie gras? I was not a happy bunny when I later found out. The tea was also a major let down, no longer baby-sat meticulously at the back of the room but left in a plain white pot on your table to stew. It was just a small mistake but I should also mention that I was initially served the cold left-overs of someone else's pot. Not quite L'Espalier service, is it?

Upon spying the new tea going down in the comfy and warm Mandarin Lobby downstairs, I was left to wonder whether L'Espalier should really bother to serve their Fantasy Tea Party any more.

Hana...
Was it the chipped teapot that left me heartbroken? Was it the lackluster service that left me dissatisfied? Was it the reply of "if more hot water would be fine," when I asked for a new pot of tea that left me disappointed? These may all seem like minor details. But isn't afternoon tea all about details? I'm having tea at L'Espalier, no less.

What you get at L'Espalier's tea is a small white pot of tea, which is cute, but will run out after 2-3 cups. Aside from the buffet style tea at the Atheneum Library, I can't recall a place I've been to that doesn't introduce us to our tea treats. Even the tea buffet had labels and more personality than this.

Overall, compared to other tea venues, I felt L'Espalier lacks the breezy feel of the Boston Harbor Hotel, the warm and cozy atmosphere from The Taj, and the old world charm of its old location. This is yet another modern, stainless steel accent, white table clothes with white ceramic dishes and white napkins restaurant.

Scores...
Tea - 75%
Food - 85%
Service - 60%
Ambiance - 80%
Average - 75%